Race Heart Features--(4 of Exercise Psychology Application)

(Excerpt from: Rock climbing technical report / Chapter IV Section IV / Li Yulin / 1998)

"I fear that I cannot play my due strength in the competition."
"I have confidence because I expect to achieve my goal."

In the face of the gradual movement of rock climbing towards competitive sports, it is believed that it is no longer the face of the pressure on the rock wall. Others such as the performance, rankings and bonus issues among the players... come one after another. Competition is not only a physical and technical competition for athletes, but also a heart. The counterbalance.

Chen Quanshou (1995) pointed out that for beginners, the training rate is 70% for physical fitness and technology, and 30% for psychology. For the best players, the training rate is 30% for fitness and technology, and 70% for the mind. It can be seen that the psychological level will receive more and more attention. For example, the usual small summer climb is worse than a hill. In an important game, perhaps the first two routes have the same number of points. The last route concerns the selection of the national team, but because of Xiao Xia’s psychological improvement, the smaller hill is better. The hillock’s disappointment was too heavy, causing the hillock to be too “stressed” (fault) in the final pressure. Xiao Xia’s performance was excellent and he was selected as a national player; therefore, in addition to superb technical performance in a game, In addition, the stability of psychological factors will also affect performance.

In the increasingly competitive competitions, in order to enable the players to have a better performance in the sports field, we are not actively looking for various reasons that will affect the performance of the competition. In general, athletes may be affected by the following factors during the competition:

(1) Physical condition and physical condition of the player.
(2) The player's skills and tactics.
(3) The psychological status of the players.
(4) The influence of external environment (such as weather, venue, equipment, etc.).

Among the many factors that affect player performance, athletes are most vulnerable to this factor of psychological stress. Excessive psychological pressure on athletes will not only deprive athletes of physical energy, victory, but also take away the fun of sports. Stress can also destroy the confidence of athletes. It can even lead to injuries and early retirement.

Therefore, the main purpose of this section is to explore the pressure management of athletes, including:

(1) Causes of athletes' stress
(2) The process of pressure generation
(3) How to help athletes manage stress
(4) Incorporate stress management in peacetime training.

(a) What is stress?
The so-called "stress" is, in simple terms, an individual's negative emotional response when the mind is threatened. In sports competitions, the pressure experienced by athletes is mostly due to the situation in the competition. Athletes are very concerned about winning or losing but they are often uncertain whether their ability can achieve the desired result, and thus cause stress. In other words, the reason why athletes have pressure in the sport situation is that athletes are aware that their own ability and the external environment have a considerable imbalance. Therefore, stress consists of four major factors: your environment, your cognition, your physiological responses, and the outcomes you produce.

1. The external environment generally refers to objective competitive situations. In the context of sports, it refers to the performance standards set at the competition or the assessment of the society. In general, when many people experience stress, they often blame the external environment. For example: The pressure given to me by the coaches and the audience's expectations of me are too high...etc. However, we understand that the objective competitive situation itself is neutral, and it does not cause any pressure unless the athlete "cognizes" the objective competitive situation as a kind of pressure. For example, in an artificial climbing gym that is also in the audience of 10,000 people, an athlete would think this is a good opportunity to show off their strength in front of so many audiences; on the contrary, another athlete may think that In front of many audiences, if something goes wrong, it must be very shameful.

2. The subjective competitive situation is the player's subjective cognition and assessment of the stress situation. When athletes recognize that their abilities are not up to the standard or meet the expectations of the society, and these are of considerable importance to players, pressure naturally arises.

At this stage, the player's cognitive history has several key points:
(1) The player's cognitive ability does not necessarily equal his strength. For example, some players lack self-confidence and feel that their strength is poor, but he is actually stronger than his opponent. Therefore, in the process of stress, the player's cognitive ability plays a very important role.
(2) The result of the competition (winning or winning, or performing well and badly) has a high degree of importance for the player. If the player feels that he has poor ability, he does not care about the outcome of the competition and the athlete will naturally feel no pressure.

3. Physiological reactions, when athletes experience stress, they are accompanied by some physiological reactions, such as faster heart rate, higher blood pressure, sweating, shortness of breath, muscle tension, etc.

4. As a result of stress, physiological reactions caused by stress often cause athletes to be psychologically worried, afraid, and narrow in their attention. They may behave badly or hurt due to excessive physiological reactions.

(B) The method of stress management After understanding the process of athletes' stress generation, how do we actually help athletes to reduce their pressures in order to exert the standard of sports performance? In the four processes arising from the aforementioned pressure, we understand that the first stage is objective. The result of the competition situation and the pressure of the last stage cannot be changed. Therefore, to reduce the pressure on the athletes in the competition can only start from the psychological cognitive assessment and physiological response, the pressure caused by the psychological assessment is the pressure generated when the player's self-recognition capacity is not enough to cope with the situation; The results are really important to the players. Therefore, there are two channels in the adjustment. The first one is not to focus on the outcome of winning or losing in the competition, but to focus on the execution of specific actions. The second is to increase the confidence of athletes in their own abilities. The pressure may also come from the physiological changes of the players and affect their normal performance. Since the stress is influenced by psychological and physiological interactions, the complete athlete stress management should include both psychological and physiological adjustments.

1. Cognitive reconstruction

In terms of psychological adjustment, there are several common methods:

(1) Negative Thinking Stop Method:
The pressure caused by psychological assessment is often because players have doubts about their abilities and have negative thoughts when they face competitions. For example, "What if the crash falls?" "How about the ceiling's route? How can I do it?"...etc. As far as these negative thoughts affect the player's performance, the negative thinking stopping method is to teach the player to think of a key word when the player has similar negative thoughts during normal practice or competition. For example, "stop" and imagine a red "stop" sign in your head and focus on the game's actions.

(2) Self-talk:
Another cognitive reconstruction technique, the so-called self-talk is that the player talks to himself during the game. Negative self-talk, for example, when the player's performance is not good, said to himself, "How can I be so "declined"? Today's game is a round!" Or, "Oh! How can it slip!" On the contrary, positive self-talk can eliminate the pressure of players too much. For example, players most often tell themselves on the court "Come on!", "Let's relax, you can definitely climb" and so on. According to the study, outstanding players have more positive self-talks than ordinary players, and negative self-talk is less than average players. Therefore, training a player to use positive self-talk during competition is a good way to eliminate stress.

(3) Rational emotions:
The rational emotion method is widely used in general counseling psychology. Scholar E11is thinks that people's emotional problems are mostly caused by illogical thinking. Therefore, when the rational emotion method is applied to athletes, it is mainly when the athlete cannot exert pressure to exclude some negative and illogical thinking. For example, when the coach pointed out that the player was wrong and directed him to correct movement, the player's mood was troubled. He thought: "All the criticisms represent injuries, the coach just criticized me, he just wanted to hurt me." Or think: "I have to After climbing, otherwise I am a loser in the coach's eyes.” When the player has similar illogical thinking in the game, it is conceivable that he will be under great pressure and emotional problems, which will affect To sports performance. Using rational emotions to help players rebuild cognitively to reduce stress, the most important thing is to help players find illogical thinking and refute them, so that players learn to think in a rational way. For example, the previously mentioned idea is illogical. The rational emotion method may point out that “when climbing, it will be a kind of affirmation for oneself, but even if it falls, it will not let the coach think you are a loser.” Moreover, if the coach has this kind of In thinking, he is not a good coach, and even if the coach thinks you are a loser, you may not be the loser, so just do your best in the game. Most of these typical illogical thinkings come from situations where the players want to control and cannot control. There is a famous saying: "Since the situation is you can control, then there is nothing to worry about. Since the situation is not something you can control, there is no use in worrying."

2. Relax training

The athlete's stress may come from the imbalance of cognitive assessment, it may also be due to the physiological awakening is too high, when athletes experience pressure, it is inevitable that the physiological response increases. Examples include rapid heart rate, increased blood pressure, muscle stiffness, shortness of breath, and sweating in the palms of the hand. If the players can be trained to relax physiologically, they can effectively reduce the pressure on the players. In general, there are many ways to relax training, but there are two kinds. One is to relax from the heart to the body, and the other is to relax from the body to the heart. The most commonly used method is described below:

(1) Muscle gradual relaxation method:
Muscle gradual relaxation is created by the scholar Jacobson. After training, the player can increase the feeling of muscle tension and relaxation. It can effectively help the player identify the excessive tension in the muscle, and thus enable the player to reduce in a very short time. Muscle tension. The Muscle Gradient Relaxation method involves a series of exercises that allow a specific muscle group to contract, hold for a few seconds, and then relax, progressing from one muscle group to another. In muscle tension, the main purpose is to teach the player's perception and sensitivity to muscle tension. At the beginning, the whole process of relaxation training is about 30 minutes. After a period of practice, the time can be shortened. Muscle gradual relaxation method can be recorded with the background music in advance tape, and then listen to the athlete.

(2) Relaxation training:
Relaxation training is a heart-to-body relaxation method developed by scholar Benson and belongs to meditation. The general practice is to use a keyword to relax the reaction training, this keyword can make the player think of relaxation, quiet, such as "static". The steps to implement are as follows:

A. Find a very comfortable place to sit quietly.
B. Close your eyes.
C. Relax your body muscles and relax from head to toe.
D. Breathe with your nose and focus on your breathing. When you exhale, meditation on yourself is "quiet." For example: inhale, exhale, "quiet", inhale, exhale, "quiet" and maintain natural and relaxed breathing.
E. Keep the fourth step for about 15 minutes. You can open your eyes and watch the time but do not use the alarm. When time comes, sit quietly for 3 minutes, slowly open your eyes and stand up after 2 minutes.
F. Practice one or two times a day. Don't be too concerned about success at first, relax yourself, and continue practicing.

(3) Self-training:
The relaxation method of self-training is developed by the German scholar Schultz and is widely used by European players. It is basically a self-hypnosis process that gives the player two kinds of physical feelings, "warmth" and "heavy." In the spontaneous training process, it is important to let the body feel in a passive and natural situation. Spontaneous training has six steps. When each step is implemented, whispering is silent in the heart, 3-5 times per minute.

A, heavy :
a. My right arm is heavy b. My left arm is heavy
c. My two arms are heavy d. My right leg is heavy
e. my left leg is very heavy f. my legs are heavy
g. My arms and legs are heavy

B. Warm: Repeat the first step and change the "heavy" feeling to "warm."
C. Heartbeat: My heartbeat is very regular and quiet.
D. Breathing: My breathing is slow, calm and relaxed.
E. Warm belly: My belly is warm (hands on the pubic area).
F, cool forehead: My forehead is cool.

Spontaneous training must be regularly trained. It takes about half an hour a day and it can reach results in about a few months.

(4) Physiological feedback method:
Physiological feedback is a relatively new field of science that combines physiology and psychology. If the athlete is under stress before the game, the body will have a clear reaction. For example, rapid heart beat, high blood pressure, etc. However, in most cases athletes do not perceive their own nervousness. Physiological feedback is to make athletes aware of his body tension and other autonomic nervous system reactions such as blood pressure, heart rate, and respiratory rate. It also teaches athletes to control the physiological response of the autonomic nervous system. Physiological feedback is usually the use of electronic instruments to detect and amplify physiological activities that are not noticeable in subtle and normal conditions. These instruments provide visual or auditory feedback. Once athletes learn to perceive physical activity through the instrument, they try to adjust it, gradually making the athlete sensitive to subtle changes in physical and mental tension and relaxation, and then learning how to produce results. There are many types of physiological feedback methods. The physiological activities detected or amplified are different, and the precision of measurement is also different. For example, the visual or auditory feedback can be used to detect and amplify the athlete's brain waves, blood pressure, heart rate, skin temperature, muscle tone, and skin electrical resistance. The physiological feedback device most commonly used for athletes is called GSR-II. It uses the skin resistance response (also known as GSR) to detect a finger and returns it to the athlete through hearing. As the athlete becomes nervous, sweat is secreted and the skin's electrical resistance is reduced, so the sound becomes louder; on the contrary, when the person relaxes, the sound becomes smaller.

The above lists some methods for relaxation training. However, there are many other methods, such as meditation, yoga, qigong, and image relaxation. Not every method is suitable for every athlete, so the best way is for the athlete to learn several different relaxation exercises to find the most appropriate and most effective method.

(III) Implementation steps of pressure management

We know that athletes' pressure management is by no means a so-called on-the-spot reminder. For example, when an average coach finds out that the player is very nervous before the game, he will say, "Don't be nervous. There's nothing to be nervous about." Such a hint may instead have a counter effect. Most of the players became more nervous after being prompted by the coach. Therefore, the pressure management of athletes should be long-term training and be incorporated into weekday training programs. According to the athlete Smith's stress management training proposed by scholar Smith (1980), the following four steps are included:

1. Pre-training assessment: Before athletes receive stress management training, they should first assess the degree of stress and under what circumstances, and how does it respond to stress? How to respond? How does stress affect its performance and behavior? Pre-training assessments can be conducted through interviews with athletes and the use of athletes trained to measure anxiety in trait anxiety and state anxiety scales. From here, we can understand the pre-training conditions of athletes.

2. Pre-training education: In this stage, it is mainly to help athletes understand their own stress responses. At the same time, it tells athletes that stress management training is an educational orientation rather than psychotherapy. The main purpose is to improve the players' self-control and adaptation. The ability to stress. In order to achieve this goal, players must fully cooperate and make efforts.

3. Relaxation Techniques: Complete athletes' stress management training should include cognitive reconstruction and relaxation training techniques. Therefore, at the stage of skill acquisition, athletes should gradually learn the skills of cognitive reconstruction and relaxation training.

4. Skill review: In order to make the athletes skilled in learning various skills, we can intentionally create some pressure or stress atmosphere during the training or competition of the athletes, even simulate the pressure greater than the spot to see if the athletes can use Learned techniques to adapt their stress.

The above is the process of stress management training. In addition, scholars also suggest other effective methods:

1. When the athlete feels nervous and stressed, smile after taking a deep breath, because it is very difficult to be nervous or angry at the same time.

2. Remind yourself of the pleasure of the game. Usually good players can enjoy the game and naturally they will not experience tension and stress.

3. Exercises such as competitions, adding a lot of stressful situations in practice, and simulating real game situations. Once players are used to them, they will not be out of control due to stress.

4. Develop your own routine routines. When pressure comes, slow down and readjust. Often over pressure causes our actions to rush and panic, thus affecting performance. So use your own steady development routine during the game (for example, before you start climbing, touch the powder bag, then clap your hands 3 times and take a deep breath before climbing).

5. Focus on the current movement. Do not regret the past, do not expect the future, do not think about the result.

6. To develop pre-match and competition psychological plans, full physical and psychological preparation is the only way to avoid excessive pressure. When all the conditions are exercised in the heart, there is nothing to be nervous and everything is under control. in.

In today’s increasingly competitive sports games, excessive pressure is indeed a nightmare for athletes to exert their strength, realize their dreams, and win medals. Through the implementation of long-term and complete stress management programs, athletes can effectively deal with the pressure problem, which in turn can enable athletes to fulfill their potential in the competition and surpass the peak.

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